Singulars: HABILE., the hybrid and inventive place to experience, brought to life by Eric, Camille and Thomas — the chef, the stylist and the wine merchant

Hybrid, convivial and inventive, Habile. is a committed eco-table, a collection of ethical clothing, and a wine cellar dedicated to the winemakers of tomorrow. A place where life is good, as atypical as the passionate couple who run it non-stop: Éric Fontanini in the kitchen as chef, and Camille Andrieux as stylist behind a unisex clothing line. The menus, which change every month, are an invitation to let go and open up to subtly assembled seasonal flavours. A genuinely transporting experience.

"Habile. We took its definition literally: 'One who carries out something with skill and competence'. The hand is the tool that connects us with Éric, so this adjective allowed us to draw a link between our trades. What amuses us is that many people read it quickly and see 'habille' — so we naturally end up talking about clothes."
Camille Andrieux co-founder and artistic director, Habile.

The dining space at Habile., is bright and peaceful — Photo OOlgan

A hybrid space in lively colours

On the corner of rue Lancry and rue du Château d'Eau, the space is a restaurant on the ground floor, a showroom on the mezzanine, and a privatisable wine cellar in the basement.

"We wanted a single entity running through a project that spans from food to clothing.
We like to intrigue and bring feeling into consumption."
Camille & Eric share their dream of being Habile.

Letting yourself be carried away by the chef's monthly menu

The Chef's Table of HABILE. is a privileged spot to enjoy the discovery menu by Eric Photo OOlgan

Chef Éric Fontanini trained alongside Alain Ducasse during the 59 avenue Raymond-Poincaré years, worked with Bruno Franck, Éric Mercier, then at Maison Blanche alongside Thierry Vaissière. He then oversaw restaurant openings in the US — L.A. and San Francisco — before returning to Paris at the Palais Royal restaurant.

At HABILE., the menu changes every month. Attentive to seasonality, Eric believes in giving things time.

"I want to give pleasure without making a dish complicated,
without too many contrasts, and also make people feel at home."
Eric

The privilege — and a word of advice: book ahead — is eating at the Chef's Table, meaning at the end of the kitchen worktop counter, and watching the dishes evolve one by one, at the pace of the chef's freely given and fully owned carte blanche. The experience, best shared by four or five, is powerful: guests feel genuinely involved in what is being prepared, at the very centre of what is served to them, with Eric's always clear-headed explanations throughout.

An eco-menu prepared right before your eyes

"We try to promote a cuisine that is demanding for us, not for the guest."
Eric

With a well-honed mastery of flavour and colour pairings, Eric builds his April discovery menu: Roasted beetroot, raspberry vinegar and Piedmont hazelnuts, the flavour of the beetroot comes through without any acidity — a very successful starter, as is the roasted and salad carrot with orange, sesame and reduced jus. Burgundy pigeon cooked two ways, jus and petits pois à la française, a dish executed with great care.

For dessert, the Pot de crème crue au chocolat noir, praliné et noisettes du Piémont is a knockout — regulars keep coming back for it.

Betteraves rôties, vinaigre de framboise et noisettes du Piémont, by Habile. Photo Cécile d'Orville

A forward-looking wine cellar

With over 350 references, Thomas favours natural, organic and biodynamic wines, with the ambition of discovering and championing tomorrow's winemakers — such as, in Champagne, Terre Jaune by Claude Lemaitre or Gamin de Terroir…

The basement cellar of Habile. can be privatised for tastings or work sessions. Photo OOlgan

HABILE. for dressing well too

The pieces created by Camille Andrieux — who, after her studies, pursued a career as a stylist at Marc Jacobs — reflect her vision: useful, quality-made to last, with clean lines that put function first. "it was while looking for an apron for Éric that I decided to create a unisex, timeless and functional range. Clothes you love and that will stay with you for a long time " she explains.

Beautiful materials, with traceable natural and organic raw ingredients. Clothes made in France and Portugal. Socks, beanies, jackets, t-shirts, trousers, deep colours — ethical fashion that respects the environment, like the reversible jacket (two in one).
Not forgetting a few artisanal products to treat yourself.

If you're wondering whether eating or dressing is truly "habile" — head over to Rue de Lancry, and you'll find a pretty good start to your answer.

Camille's mezzanine showroom showcases her clothing line Habile. and useful products. Photo OOlgan

Practical information:

Habile., 16 rue de Lancry (corner of Rue du Château d'Eau), 75010 Paris
Tel: + 33 1 44 63 82 62 – reservation
The entire venue can be privatised for a half-day or a full day until 2am

The menus

• Lunch menu: Starter/main or Main/dessert: €23; Starter/main/dessert: €29
• Main course only: €16
• Breakfast, on Saturdays 10am–12pm

Carte blanche (ideally at the Chef's Table, reservation required)

• 2 starters, 2 mains, 1 dessert at €55
• 3 starters, 3 mains, 2 desserts at €75

Author: Cécile d'Orville
Article published 25 April 2023

The article can be found here.