SWITCHING TO SLOW FASHION – HOW TO CONSUME FASHION IN AN ECO-RESPONSIBLE AND SUSTAINABLE WAY
It's hard to talk about fashion when you've just spent two months in lockdown wearing joggers or pyjamas. But if this period has taught us anything, it's that…
It's hard to talk about fashion when you've just spent two months in lockdown wearing joggers or pyjamas. But if this period has taught us anything, it's thatthe stakes of eco-responsible fashion are more relevant than ever.
First, because we suddenly realise we don't necessarily need 15 pairs of jeans, whatever Zara's promotional emails might suggest… But also because, in this time of hope and renewal, it's the moment to dream of a transition towards a more ecological world.
Obviously, the road is long: the major fast-fashion groupsfast-fashion(Inditex, H&M and Asos) continue to produce the most influential brands and generate staggering revenues (€40 billion in 2018).
But little by little, other voices are making themselves heard, amplified by social media and the press: yes, you can dress on-trend while beingethical. Yes, you can have a stylish, eco-responsible wardrobe. And yes, a life without fast fashion is possible…
And even necessary.
So how do you shift to a moreresponsibleway of consuming? What steps can you take to buy stylish, ethical clothes? And above all, why should you avoid fast fashion?
Welcome to the world of slow fashion.
But first, a little reminder…
And a reminder is never very pleasant. In this case, to fully grasp the importance of the subject, we need to recall what fast fashion is and what impact it has on the planet.
Fast fashion is all those brands releasing new items almost every week. A bit like fast food, it's not very healthy — and above all not good for the planet: first because it creates a constant sense of lack, but also and above all because the fashion industry isthe second most polluting industry in the world:20% of global water pollution, between 3 and 10% of greenhouse gas emissions, and 4 million tonnes of textiles discarded every year, among other things.
You all know the fast fashion brands, and it's quite likely you have at least one piece from them at home: Zara, H&M, Mango, Primark, Monki, Asos, Missguided, Nasty Gal… In short, all those brands where we shop without a second thought when we want to treat ourselves to something cheap.
Except that this "cheap" little treat comes at a cost:
-Thatof a planet suffering because of a gigantic industry: greenhouse gas emissions, water pollution, overproduction of packaging, massive exploitation of non-renewable resources… Fast fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world for good reason.
-Thatof the rapid and accelerated obsolescence of clothing: the little dress you buy to be on trend was designed not to last. First because the fabric doesn't hold up over time, but also because it won't be very fashionable in two weeks. Which will make you want to buy another one, then another, then another… With a constant sense of lack. Gone are the days of Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer collections. In fast fashion, those seasons are themselves broken down into dozens of collections.
-Thatof the use of components that can be harmful to our health:in 2012, Greenpeace published a report entitled "Dirty Laundry: Unravelling the corporate connections to toxic water pollution in China". The report revealed that around twenty ready-to-wear brands were selling clothes containing dangerous chemical substances (ethoxylatesofnonylphenols, azo dyes,phthalates,…). At first glance, these mean nothing to you, but some of these substances are endocrine disruptors that affect reproductive functions and disrupt hormonal balance. Others are even known to be carcinogenic. In short, everything you don't want to be wearing against your skin all day long.
-That ofshameful working conditions devoid of any social rights:it's no surprise that most of your clothes are stamped made in China/Bangladesh/Turkey/Mexico/Pakistan/Indonesia. These are countries where labour is cheaper, and often exploited. Remember: in April 2014, theRana Plazadisaster in Bangladesh left its mark on people's memories. The building that housed several garment workshops saw 1,127 workers perish in its collapse. They were working for various international brands. A tragedy that became a symbol of the abuses of fast fashion.
The problem? It takes disasters like this one for people to suddenly realise what their cheap little jumper is hiding. According to Géraldine Viret, communications officer for the NGO Public Eye,"There is no questioning of the current business model in the textile industry, to this day."
We warned you. A booster shot stings. And sorry if right now you're sheepishly eyeing that 100% fast fashion T-shirt you bought without knowing everything that went into it.
So then,what is the alternative to fast fashion? How do you dress in amore responsible and sustainable way? Andhow do you stay fashionable while saving the planet?
Don't worry, there is an answer to these questions:it's slow fashion.
Slow fashion — what's that?
Theslow fashion(also called slow ware) is what we champion at Habile, and what we defend relentlessly. By definition, it stands in opposition to fast fashion on every level.
Slow fashion refers toclothing brands that produce pieces combining style, quality and durability. Gone are the collections that last barely two weeks: in slow fashion, when you buy a garment, you'll be able to wear it for several seasons at least.
This involves in particularthe use of more ecological and higher-quality raw materials, working conditions that aremore responsible, production that ismore local, and production techniques that aremore respectful of the environment.
To put it simply: slow fashion is aboutquality over quantity. That basic little jumper you'd have bought for €19 at Zara will certainly cost more from a slow fashion brand… But it will be more responsible and won't pill after the first wash.
A way to consume more thoughtfully and responsibly.
And the brands that do this best are the ones known as "eco-responsible" and "sustainable".
What do we mean by "eco-responsible" and "sustainable"?
As it's a new way of producing fashion, the definitions are still blurry.
A study by the chair Institut Français de la Mode-Première Vision presented last September 18th proves it: for some, eco-responsible fashion is understood as"made from natural materials". For others, it is more associated withproduction that respects the environment and limits the waste of resources. For others still, "sustainable" fashion refers toproducts whose quality allows them to be used for longer, to avoid the tonnes of textiles thrown away every year.
Well, the answer isthat eco-responsible fashion combines a little of all of that at once. On top of being a new mode of production and consumption, it is even an almost cultural revolution that is gradually making its way into people's minds, and a battle fought head-on by young and old alike, even if millennials are the consumers who today act as the spokespeople for this movement.
Makes you want to get started, doesn't it? Good timing: since it's a subject close to our hearts at Habile, we decided to put together our best tips for beginning your transition towards a more sustainable and ethical fashion… while staying trendy.
How to dress eco-responsibly and stylishly?
-Sort and limit your wardrobe: no judgement here. We've all been through the"I already have a grey jumper but this one has a nice detail on the collar and is a slightly darker shade, so I need it, so I'm buying it".
Except that it's precisely this kind of behaviour and impulsive buying encouraged by fast fashion that leads to the following findings:in a report, Greenpeace counts100 billion pieces of clothing produced every year worldwide. Go on, and the final blow: according to a study by British consulting agency Wrap,30% of our wardrobe is almost never worn.
Yes, really — that's the famous grey jumper you thought was so revolutionary, the one you'll wear twice at most, or forget about before you've even put it on (on average in France, 114 euros' worth of unworn clothes sits in every home…)
Sohave a clear-out: by taking the time to empty your wardrobe and sort through it properly, you'll have the chance to rediscover pieces you'd forgotten and give them a second life — or donate them to be recycled by dedicated organisations. Le Relais, for example, lists all its sorting points on its website, so you can find where to drop off your clothes near you (here).
There are also dedicated sorting websites to help you get started, such as La Fibre du Tri:https://www.lafibredutri.fr.
-Take care of your clothes to make them last longer: the problem with fast fashion is that the fabrics are made not to hold up… and therefore create a "disposable" fashion. After two or three washes, the pieces fall apart, and you feel like replacing them.
Clever, but catastrophic for the planet and your wallet.
So it's time to go back tobasics, and look after your wardrobe the way you look after your skin:
- Follow the washing instructions (30° recommended, turn jeans and other delicate items inside out, hand-wash fragile pieces, air out wool)
- Avoid the tumble dryer as it damages clothes
- Mend your clothes: no, just because your jumper has a hole in it doesn't mean it belongs in the bin. When a garment is damaged, you can perfectly well repair it rather than writing it off. Pilling, holes, stains… there's always a remedy for your clothes' little mishaps!
- You'll find more information on clothing care on websites such aswww.linfodurable.fr, and atHABILEwe're currently working on a special feature to give you all the keys to sustainably caring for your favourite pieces — you can check out the first HABILE tipsHABILEright here.
-Bet on the basics:sure, a multicoloured sequin jacket will turn heads at a party. But the chances of you ever wearing it again are close to zero. The beauty of basics is that they make fora versatile wardrobeyou'll never tire of. By mixing and accessorising them, you constantly reinvent your style without ever falling into monotony.
Yes, you can wear dungarees with a chic blouse and heels. Yes, a denim jacket works with a floral dress or a simple white T-shirt. Just like healthy eating and itscheat days, set yourself an 80-20 rule: 80% sensible purchases (basics, beautiful pieces, timeless classics), and 20% fun (go on, give in to that multicoloured sequin jacket if you really must. But nothing else!).
-Dive into the wonderful world of vintage and second-hand: it's a fact — the second-hand clothing market will one day overtake fast fashion. According to aUS study conducted by research firm GlobalData for the American websitethredUP, the second-hand clothing market is set to double, reaching €45 billion by 2023 — surpassing the luxury market by 2022 and fast fashion by 2028!
Dressing from thrift shops isn't sketchy at all — it's actually pretty cool: thanks to the curated selections of both physical and online boutiques (on the Imparfaite Paris website, for example, or on the lovely thrift shop accounts on Instagram likeCocktail Brut,Petite Chineuse,Fripouille Vintage…)
And of course, there are also second-hand platforms like Vinted (which has a lot of fast fashion items, be warned) or Vestiaire Collective for a more quality-focused brand selection.
-Adopt the right habits at the point of purchase: it will help yougradually shift your buying behaviour towards more ethical and responsible fashion.First, when you're about to give in to a piece, ask yourself:"Do I really need it? Can I wear it with more than 3 outfits in my wardrobe? Does the quality look good enough to last long-term?"Most of the time, a lot of fast fashion pieces won't pass the crash test…
Then,don't be afraid to step outside the norm.A wealth of innovative brands is emerging today, driven by committed designers fighting against throwaway fashion — without necessarily going as far asorganic clothingorvegan. There's something for every style, and no doubt yours too. Ethical can rhyme with chic, and on top of that you'll have a story to tell — one with meaning and values. Isn't that worth learning to resist the aggressive marketing of the big chains on every high street?
-Favour made inEurope or made in France:buying local is the best eco-friendly move. What works for vegetables works for your socks too. Sure, it'll cost you a bit more, but origin is also a guarantee of quality — and French or European brands are no slouch! In all modesty, you've got one right under your nose ;)
-Take the time to assess the quality of materials and the finish of garments:whether you're shopping online or in store, look more closely at the composition labels, favour natural materials — cotton, linen, wool… Learn to judge the cut, how the fabric holds its shape, and the quality of the stitching. It'll take a little practice, but you'll be better off for it.
Better to buy a €40 t-shirt that will last several seasons than two €20 t-shirts that will fall apart after a few washes. And on top of that, you'll be paying the fair price — the price of quality materials in line with eco-responsible standards. According to experts, the number one factor in fashion's environmental impact is quality. If you buy products made from durable materials and finished with care, you'll replace your clothes less often, and that will reduce the impact of your purchases.
-Trust the labels: certain ones guarantee the absence of harmful chemical substances, such as certain dyes or coatings. Transparency is the key to eco-friendly fashion. The idea is to be able toinform the consumerabout the origin of the products they buy.For example? The labelGOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard, which certifies the organic origin of fabrics and compliance with social criteria throughout their production, the World Fair Trade label which guarantees the ethical making of an eco-responsible garment, or theOeko-Texlabel, which guarantees textiles free from substances harmful to people or the environment. If you want to learn more about the materials to prioritise, visit these sites:
https://thebigblueproject.com/
https://www.oxfammagasinsdumonde.be/blog/
There you have it! We hope this article has helped you better understand the issues facing fashion today… And above all, that it will inspire you to move towards a more eco-responsible and sustainable way of dressing.