Le Parisien Dimanche: "HABILE, cooking on instinct"

"When the welcome is warm, when the chef cooks with his hands but also with his heart, when he loves his job and radiates a joy for life, you have a good chance of having a great time. That's what happened to me the other day at HABILE, near République (Paris 10th), Éric Fontanini's restaurant. A place with two entry points: on the ground floor, the kitchen and the dining room; upstairs, the boutique of his partner Camille, who displays the lovely jumpers, aprons and dungarees she designs. The whole thing has real character. A veteran of Alain Ducasse and Guy Savoy, former head chef of the very chic Palais Royal Restaurant, Éric Fontanini knows his craft — but he cooks on instinct. Here, he doesn't overthink it, brings flavours together with effortless simplicity, and his guests leave happy. I started with beetroot roasted with raspberry vinegar and Piedmont hazelnuts, and couldn't resist reaching across to my neighbour's plate for the foie gras pâté en croûte — also finished with hazelnuts (for the crunch) and a condiment of fermented apricots and mustard seeds. Remarkable. For my main, I went for the scallops with radishes and mandarins: the briny fragrance and the sweetness got along rather well.

Last year I had already been, and I'd jumped at the pork shoulder lasagne with smoked Bray tomme (a Norman speciality). A classic on Éric's menu, one I still think about. It's by the memories they leave you with that you recognise the good ones». Laurent Guez