Guide Lebey's favourite: "Increasingly rare in Paris, this is truly an experience you're invited to share here."
We are very proud to have welcomed Pierre-Yves Chupin to cook our cep tart with him. The video is available here! It's an honour to be…
We are very proud to have welcomed Pierre-Yves Chupin to cook our cep tart with him.
The video is available here !
It's an honour to be featured as one of Guide Lebey's favourites.
" Address of the week:
We last saw him at the Palais Royal restaurant in a gastronomic setting, and here he is a few years later in this place that is at once a shop and a bistro. A trajectory that suits this atypical chef well — one who found the time to develop a "casual" clothing line with his partner while also offering groceries and wines for sale.
Éric Fontanini has a strong personality, quick to be cheeky. He champions a simplified cuisine that respects the produce, spending hours telling you about his trusted suppliers and artisans, most of whom he works with directly. Explaining how he one day decided to mill his own flour from Annie Bertin's wheat. Sharing his recipe for the croque-monsieur — ham from Hospital, tomme from the Ferme de la Quesne or butter from Ferme Fontaine, and, above all, a minimum of béchamel so as not to smother the flavours. On tasting, it works.
Regulars keep coming back for more, going so far as to book the table set in front of his stove to keep the conversation going and prolong the show as the meal is being prepared.
Everything moves fast — simplified plating, sauces he deliberately keeps from over-reducing so there's plenty to spoon over, and cooking times that are either short or slow-braised to play with texture. The result is plates that really deliver: sharp flavours, ingredients treated with respect, genuine pleasure. He's waiting for game season to make his version of lièvre à la royale. No galantine, no truffle, no foie gras — the kind of thing chefs "finish sous-vide far too often" — just a generous braise, and he's already chosen the wine to go with it.
Increasingly rare in Paris, this is a genuine experience worth sharing. Bold in colour and in flavour. Pierre-Yves Chupin
Our meal: French ceps, thyme shortbread and celeriac compote (a real treat); lamb neck confit for 8 hours, panisse, olives, lovage, peanuts and meat jus (the panisse — chickpea purée — was a great idea); tarte Tatin (actually rather disappointing, too much pastry, not enough fruit); €67 for the meal with a glass of Bordeaux Cuvée K 2009, château Massereau
Wine: a carefully curated selection, also available to take away
Bread: pain de Julhès, thickly sliced (56, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis)
Cheese: camembert de Bermonville, raw milk, served with toasted almonds
Coffee: café Plaine d'Arômes (92700 Colombes), served with house-made cookies
Practical information: 5-course tasting menu €55, 7-course €75; closed Sunday and Monday; open 10am to 10pm non-stop".
16, rue de Lancry - 75010
Metro: Jacques-Bonsergent