The Guide Lebey's favourite: "Increasingly rare in Paris, this is truly an experience you're invited to share here."
We are very proud to have welcomed Pierre-Yves Chupin to cook our cep tart with him. The video can be found here! It is an honour to be…
We are very proud to have welcomed Pierre-Yves Chupin to cook our cep tart with him.
The video can be foundhere!
It is an honour to be featured as one of the Guide Lebey's favourites.
" Address of the week:
We last saw him at the Palais Royal restaurant in a gastronomic register, and here he is again a few years later in this space that is at once a shop and a bistro. A trajectory that suits this atypical chef well — one who has found the time to develop a "casual" clothing line with his partner while also offering groceries and wines for sale.
Éric Fontanini has a strong personality, quick to turn cheeky. He champions a simplified cuisine, one that respects the produce — to the point of spending hours telling you about his trusted suppliers and the artisans he mostly works with directly. Explaining how he one day decided to mill his own flour from Annie Bertin's wheat. Sharing his recipe for the croque-monsieur — ham from Hospital, tomme from the ferme de la Quesne or butter from the ferme Fontaine, and, above all, a minimum of béchamel so as not to smother the aromas. At the tasting, it works.
Regulars keep coming back for more, going so far as to book the table set in front of his stove to continue the conversation and prolong the spectacle while the meal is being prepared.
Everything moves fast — simplified plating, jus he deliberately avoids over-reducing so there's plenty for generous saucing, and cooking times that are either short or slow-braised to play with textures. These are plates that deliver: sharp flavours, ingredients treated with respect, and genuine pleasure. He's waiting for hunting season to prepare his version of lièvre à la royale. No galantine, no truffle, no foie gras — the kind of thing chefs "finish sous-vide far too often" — just a generous compote, for which he has already chosen the wine.
Increasingly rare in Paris, this is a genuine experience you're invited to share here. Vivid in colour and in flavour.Pierre-Yves Chupin
Our meal: French ceps, thyme shortbread and celeriac compote (a real treat); lamb neck confit for 8 hours, panisse, olives, lovage, peanuts and meat jus (the panisse — or chickpea purée — a nice touch); tarte Tatin (actually rather disappointing, too much pastry and not enough fruit); €67 for the meal with a glass of Bordeaux Cuvée K 2009, château Massereau
Wine: a carefully curated selection, also available to purchase
Bread: thickly sliced Julhès bread (56, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis)
Cheese: raw-milk camembert de Bermonville, served with toasted almonds
Coffee: café Plaine d'Arômes (92700 Colombes) served with homemade cookies
Practical information: 5-course tasting menu €55 and 7-course €75; closed Sunday and Monday; service from 10am to 10pm non-stop".
16, rue de Lancry - 75010
Metro: Jacques-Bonsergent