What’s Behind the Work Blue
Discover 300 years of class consciousness
When we think of the 'iconic blue cloth garment', the first thing that comes to mind is denim jeans. However, while denim gained success across the Atlantic, it’s the work blue that left its mark on modern Europe.
Never has a garment embodied such profound changes in the world of work. It is filled with the demands of the working class.
Although most people associate it with the 19th century, in the heart of the industrial revolution, the work blue actually dates back much earlier. It even predates the French Revolution. In many ways, we know very little about its role and origin.
This textile is imbued with values, labor, and struggles. It carries nearly 300 years of social, economic, and symbolic history.
When we think of the 'iconic blue cloth garment', the first thing that comes to mind is denim jeans. However, while denim gained success across the Atlantic, it’s the work blue that left its mark on modern Europe.
Never has a garment embodied such profound changes in the world of work. It is filled with the demands of the working class.
Although most people associate it with the 19th century, in the heart of the industrial revolution, the work blue actually dates back much earlier. It even predates the French Revolution. In many ways, we know very little about its role and origin.
This textile is imbued with values, labor, and struggles. It carries nearly 300 years of social, economic, and symbolic history.
An ideal cut to protect and facilitate movement
While its vivid color grabs attention, the main benefit of the work blue lies in its function. It’s the choice of cut before color. Designed for work, it perfectly adapts to the transformations of the working world.
It all starts at the dawn of the industrial revolution. From around 1760 to 1840, the emergence of machines in workshops and factories takes place. Initially mechanical, then automated, the production tools modernize. In this context of innovation, the organization of work is radically altered. And so is the life of the workers.
In factories, work accidents multiply. Many workers are caught in the gears of the machines. Clothing and limbs are often torn away. It’s not uncommon to see workers mutilated, having lost an arm, leg, or hand caught in the machinery.
Thus, it became necessary to create an outfit perfectly suited to the new working methods. A garment that could protect workers from danger. The work blue is the answer to this safety requirement.
Gone are the civilian clothes with wide sleeves and oversized cuts. Instead, a simple, straight cut is favored. Ideal for protecting the body without limiting movement.
While its vivid color grabs attention, the main benefit of the work blue lies in its function. It’s the choice of cut before color. Designed for work, it perfectly adapts to the transformations of the working world.
It all starts at the dawn of the industrial revolution. From around 1760 to 1840, the emergence of machines in workshops and factories takes place. Initially mechanical, then automated, the production tools modernize. In this context of innovation, the organization of work is radically altered. And so is the life of the workers.
In factories, work accidents multiply. Many workers are caught in the gears of the machines. Clothing and limbs are often torn away. It’s not uncommon to see workers mutilated, having lost an arm, leg, or hand caught in the machinery.
Thus, it became necessary to create an outfit perfectly suited to the new working methods. A garment that could protect workers from danger. The work blue is the answer to this safety requirement.
Gone are the civilian clothes with wide sleeves and oversized cuts. Instead, a simple, straight cut is favored. Ideal for protecting the body without limiting movement.
The material choice is canvas. A thick canvas that is suitable for both high heat and cold. Very durable, it prevents cuts and scratches.
The advantage of canvas is also its ease of maintenance. It collects less dust. The work blue lasts longer than regular clothes.
Initially, it consists of a single piece. A blouse closed with a belt around the waist. It’s designed to be comfortable and practical. The pockets are patch pockets without flaps, large enough to hold daily tools: tape measure, instruments, and technical notebook.
Then it transforms into different garments: jacket, pants, shirt. Every profession finds its use. For the metalworker, it’s worn with a leather apron. Ideal for high heat, burns, and sparks. For textile workers, its dark color hides dirt and splashes, as well as grease stains.
The work blue significantly reduces accidents. It becomes the first PPE (personal protective equipment) in the history of work. Easy to wear, it is made to protect the worker and their clothing.
The advantage of canvas is also its ease of maintenance. It collects less dust. The work blue lasts longer than regular clothes.
Initially, it consists of a single piece. A blouse closed with a belt around the waist. It’s designed to be comfortable and practical. The pockets are patch pockets without flaps, large enough to hold daily tools: tape measure, instruments, and technical notebook.
Then it transforms into different garments: jacket, pants, shirt. Every profession finds its use. For the metalworker, it’s worn with a leather apron. Ideal for high heat, burns, and sparks. For textile workers, its dark color hides dirt and splashes, as well as grease stains.
The work blue significantly reduces accidents. It becomes the first PPE (personal protective equipment) in the history of work. Easy to wear, it is made to protect the worker and their clothing.
An unexpected and revolutionary color: Prussian blue
The work blue almost wasn’t blue.
In fact, the choice of a dark color wasn’t so obvious for the time. Although dark colors have the advantage of hiding stains on fabric, dyeing clothes used to be a tedious task.
Dyeing was expensive and didn’t set well on the canvas. So, dark colors were mostly reserved for the wealthy. They were not meant for workers who wore their clothes out quickly.
The original color of the work blue is Prussian blue. Also known as Berlin blue because of its city of origin, it is the first modern synthetic pigment.
Like many inventions, its discovery was purely accidental. It happened between 1700 and 1704. It was invented by a color merchant, Johann Jacob Diesbach. He discovered this shade after a failed experiment.
He was trying to reproduce Florence lacquer, which is carmine red. A pigment made from a mix of cochineal, alum, iron sulfate, and potash.
Short of potash, he borrowed some from a colleague. But his potash was already mixed with an animal blood-based preparation. After completing the chemical process, the red color he was expecting turned purple and then blue. This was the accidental birth of Prussian blue.
This mixing mistake turned into vast profit. Thanks to Prussian blue, the pigment obtained was very deep, had excellent hold on canvas, and could be produced with a simple and economical process. For years, its composition was so profitable that it was kept secret.
The work blue almost wasn’t blue.
In fact, the choice of a dark color wasn’t so obvious for the time. Although dark colors have the advantage of hiding stains on fabric, dyeing clothes used to be a tedious task.
Dyeing was expensive and didn’t set well on the canvas. So, dark colors were mostly reserved for the wealthy. They were not meant for workers who wore their clothes out quickly.
The original color of the work blue is Prussian blue. Also known as Berlin blue because of its city of origin, it is the first modern synthetic pigment.
Like many inventions, its discovery was purely accidental. It happened between 1700 and 1704. It was invented by a color merchant, Johann Jacob Diesbach. He discovered this shade after a failed experiment.
He was trying to reproduce Florence lacquer, which is carmine red. A pigment made from a mix of cochineal, alum, iron sulfate, and potash.
Short of potash, he borrowed some from a colleague. But his potash was already mixed with an animal blood-based preparation. After completing the chemical process, the red color he was expecting turned purple and then blue. This was the accidental birth of Prussian blue.
This mixing mistake turned into vast profit. Thanks to Prussian blue, the pigment obtained was very deep, had excellent hold on canvas, and could be produced with a simple and economical process. For years, its composition was so profitable that it was kept secret.
The uniform of the working class
Practical and economical, its durability proves its worth. It opens the doors to all workshops and factories. In the middle of the 19th century, it becomes the quintessential workwear. It becomes the standard for workers.
Factory owners provide it free of charge. In smaller workshops, it is the worker's responsibility to obtain and maintain it.
The piece is kept for as long as possible. It is mended as needed. The patching of work blues is a common practice. This successive patchwork of blue pieces can still be found today in some thrift stores.
Labor unions fight for its provision from employers. It becomes part of the worker's social gains.
Its success takes it beyond the factory. It is adopted by painters, sailors, railroad workers, and mail carriers. With its democratization, a sense of class belonging emerges.
While the work blue is the uniform of the worker, the working class is divided over its symbolism.
For some, wearing the work blue is a point of pride. It marks membership to their factory and their social class. For others, it’s a symbol of lower classification. Some workers even refuse to wear it.
Especially among specialized workers. They see it as a sign of their subjugation. Their more technical jobs are also starting to be affected by task automation.
By opting for the work blue, the worker distinguishes themselves from the bosses and foremen. It’s the beginning of the divide between white-collar and blue-collar workers. The work blue then becomes a way of life and a class consciousness.
Practical and economical, its durability proves its worth. It opens the doors to all workshops and factories. In the middle of the 19th century, it becomes the quintessential workwear. It becomes the standard for workers.
Factory owners provide it free of charge. In smaller workshops, it is the worker's responsibility to obtain and maintain it.
The piece is kept for as long as possible. It is mended as needed. The patching of work blues is a common practice. This successive patchwork of blue pieces can still be found today in some thrift stores.
Labor unions fight for its provision from employers. It becomes part of the worker's social gains.
Its success takes it beyond the factory. It is adopted by painters, sailors, railroad workers, and mail carriers. With its democratization, a sense of class belonging emerges.
While the work blue is the uniform of the worker, the working class is divided over its symbolism.
For some, wearing the work blue is a point of pride. It marks membership to their factory and their social class. For others, it’s a symbol of lower classification. Some workers even refuse to wear it.
Especially among specialized workers. They see it as a sign of their subjugation. Their more technical jobs are also starting to be affected by task automation.
By opting for the work blue, the worker distinguishes themselves from the bosses and foremen. It’s the beginning of the divide between white-collar and blue-collar workers. The work blue then becomes a way of life and a class consciousness.
A work garment repurposed
From the 1970s onwards, workers began to abandon the work blue. It was no longer a symbol of dignity. They preferred the smock or they chose to wear their own clothes. By doing so, they claimed their freedom to dress as they wished.
At the same time, it was reclaimed by a student movement during the May 68 protests. Although they did not belong to the working class, some activists wore it proudly. The work blue represented the convergence of workers’ and students’ struggles.
It moved beyond its original utilitarian function to become part of popular culture. Then it made its way onto haute couture runways. Designers like Dior and Marithé and François Girbaud took it up, showcasing it on the catwalks. It thus became a timeless garment.
After workers, students, and fashion, it was adopted by artists. Photographer Bill Cunningham from New York, for example, favored the large pockets of the work blue. They were perfect for slipping in his camera and notebook.
For artist Annie Perrin, it was its symbolic value that attracted her. In her art installation, she displayed piles of work blues. Through them, she denounced the outsourcing that shatters the lives and jobs of local workers.
No matter its evolution, the work blue remains intrinsically linked to the values of labor. It is associated with working-class identity in the truest sense. With the culture of making—both artisanal and artistic.
From the 1970s onwards, workers began to abandon the work blue. It was no longer a symbol of dignity. They preferred the smock or they chose to wear their own clothes. By doing so, they claimed their freedom to dress as they wished.
At the same time, it was reclaimed by a student movement during the May 68 protests. Although they did not belong to the working class, some activists wore it proudly. The work blue represented the convergence of workers’ and students’ struggles.
It moved beyond its original utilitarian function to become part of popular culture. Then it made its way onto haute couture runways. Designers like Dior and Marithé and François Girbaud took it up, showcasing it on the catwalks. It thus became a timeless garment.
After workers, students, and fashion, it was adopted by artists. Photographer Bill Cunningham from New York, for example, favored the large pockets of the work blue. They were perfect for slipping in his camera and notebook.
For artist Annie Perrin, it was its symbolic value that attracted her. In her art installation, she displayed piles of work blues. Through them, she denounced the outsourcing that shatters the lives and jobs of local workers.
No matter its evolution, the work blue remains intrinsically linked to the values of labor. It is associated with working-class identity in the truest sense. With the culture of making—both artisanal and artistic.
The HABILE work blue
If the work blue is making a grand comeback today, it’s for the same reasons as before. Workwear enthusiasts love its unbeatable practicality.
It is the ultimate durable garment. And it is precisely within this durability mindset that the French brand HABILE has revitalized the work blue.
Today, it stands as a symbol of a wardrobe that is both timeless and deeply modern. It’s an iconic piece that can be worn for a lifetime.
The HABILE jacket has a straight cut, unisex without being uniform. It is designed to fit all body types, tall, short, female or male.
Its material is cotton twill. 100% natural. A comfortable, breathable, and ultra-resistant fabric. It has an appreciable flexibility, particularly compared to Moleskine, thanks to its crossed threads.
Durable, it respects both your skin and the environment. It is made in Portugal under the Oeko-tex standard 100 label, the most demanding environmental certification in dyeing. The color does not run. No risk during washing. This ensures that it can be worn over and over again, for a long time.
Functional, it is suitable for all seasons. Summer or winter. It replaces the denim jacket, avoiding the double denim effect. This explains its success with streetstylers. It can also be worn under another jacket for a beautiful blue gradient.
Reversible, it can be turned inside out with a simple gesture to change the look. The HABILE work blue is two jackets in one. A unique advantage compared to traditional work blues. It can be worn during the day or evening, depending on your desires and daily life.
Reinventing the work blue also meant perfecting the finish: The HABILE jacket is worked in every detail: double stitching and a print directly on the reverse. No lining effect. Double-headed snap buttons, chic and practical, to fasten the jacket in both directions… A condensed version of craftsmanship reinvented for you.
For all those who want a proud and functional garment. In its French blue color or its variants (ultramarine blue, pine green, or blue-gray)
You will love wearing it. For a long time.
If the work blue is making a grand comeback today, it’s for the same reasons as before. Workwear enthusiasts love its unbeatable practicality.
It is the ultimate durable garment. And it is precisely within this durability mindset that the French brand HABILE has revitalized the work blue.
Today, it stands as a symbol of a wardrobe that is both timeless and deeply modern. It’s an iconic piece that can be worn for a lifetime.
The HABILE jacket has a straight cut, unisex without being uniform. It is designed to fit all body types, tall, short, female or male.
Its material is cotton twill. 100% natural. A comfortable, breathable, and ultra-resistant fabric. It has an appreciable flexibility, particularly compared to Moleskine, thanks to its crossed threads.
Durable, it respects both your skin and the environment. It is made in Portugal under the Oeko-tex standard 100 label, the most demanding environmental certification in dyeing. The color does not run. No risk during washing. This ensures that it can be worn over and over again, for a long time.
Functional, it is suitable for all seasons. Summer or winter. It replaces the denim jacket, avoiding the double denim effect. This explains its success with streetstylers. It can also be worn under another jacket for a beautiful blue gradient.
Reversible, it can be turned inside out with a simple gesture to change the look. The HABILE work blue is two jackets in one. A unique advantage compared to traditional work blues. It can be worn during the day or evening, depending on your desires and daily life.
Reinventing the work blue also meant perfecting the finish: The HABILE jacket is worked in every detail: double stitching and a print directly on the reverse. No lining effect. Double-headed snap buttons, chic and practical, to fasten the jacket in both directions… A condensed version of craftsmanship reinvented for you.
For all those who want a proud and functional garment. In its French blue color or its variants (ultramarine blue, pine green, or blue-gray)
You will love wearing it. For a long time.